Last weekend, I was in New York with my sister, Gabrielle, rediscovering the Big Apple. Our main reason for being there was to see Cayman’s very own Swanky Kitchen Band playing on an outdoor stage at Lincoln Center (which was amazing), but, of course, we found time to get up to some other fun stuff.
Our hotel was well located for the shows we wanted to see, but it meant being almost a stone’s throw away from what many consider to be one of America’s biggest tourist traps. Times Square at night can make Las Vegas look like a morgue.
On our first evening (Thursday), we saw the hit Broadway musical ‘Six’. Not to be recommended for students trying to pass their history exams, but an absolute hoot otherwise, it is very loosely based on the lives of King Henry VIII’s wives. I had seen the show in London and thought Gabs would really enjoy it. We had a great time, even as we refamiliarised ourselves with the lack of leg room in those theatre seats. P.S. If you think Cayman is expensive, buy a cocktail at a Broadway production. I was looking for the gold bar at the bottom of my glass.
When we all exited onto the street at the end, there was a slew of pedicabs with bright, flashing lights and upbeat music, waiting for patrons to come out. Every one a mobile disco. Even though they can be complete ripoffs, I thought it would be a giggle to take one back to the hotel. Besides, neither of us was particularly in the mood to walk. I had to bargain a bit with the Kazakhstani cyclist, as no WAY, mate, was I paying $50. He accepted my bid and we got in. Well, what a riot! Terribly dangerous, with irritable drivers of massive black SUVs coming within inches of us, but we laughed the whole way. He took us through the heart of Times Square and it was all pedal power – no electric bike and he was wearing flip-flops. I had to give the guy props, and tipped him well at the end – he had earned every penny.
On Friday, we went exploring for a couple of hours. It was pretty hot in the city, and not a breath of wind. The plan was to see the Charging Bull of Wall Street and maybe Central Park. There was a huge lineup for people waiting to dive beneath the bull and cradle his testicles for a photo. Charming. Most of the sculpture is dark brown, but his two-veg and snout are polished golden from constant handling. I don’t know if you’ve ever read the story of how the bull got to be in NY, but it is so interesting – you should Google it.
We had to forgo Central Park, due to the terrible traffic, as there was no way we were missing Jordan Crooks swimming in the Olympics 50m final. After screaming our heads off in our hotel room, cheering him on, we had a rest before going to see Eddie Redmayne and Bebe Neuwirth in a new version of ‘Cabaret’. I’d booked us premium dining seats, which turned out to be two chairs and a postage stamp of a table. Our charcuterie meal was served in tiffin boxes, and there was a bottle of Moët Champagne chilling in a built-in bucket. What with that and the lamp, it was all we could do to balance everything without sending a pretzel flying into our neighbours’ laps.
This production is staged in the round, and from when you walk in the front door of the theatre, it’s an ‘experience’. All guests were given a shot of cherry schnapps, which to my sophisticated palate tasted like Dentyne and paint thinner. Then we were huddled to a bar area where pre-show dancers and musicians performed until we got ushered into the main theatre. Our seats were on the aisle – and it just happened to be the very aisle that all the main characters would pass along. Gabs was in spitting distance of Bebe et al, and Eddie (in the part of the Emcee) actually stopped and commented on her handbag. Terribly thrilling.
On Saturday, we arrived at the Lincoln Center to see a sea of Cayman’s colours before us. It was such a heartwarming sight – all these Caymanians there to support Swanky. There were some who lived in NY, but a lot of them had flown up specially to see the band. Unfortunately, the weather didn’t cooperate – we only got about 25 minutes of music before the heavens opened for the second time in an hour and shut it all down. Nonetheless, everyone was grateful they got to play at all. There were two more international acts scheduled after them, along with a late night disco, and every one of them was cancelled.
On Sunday, I wasn’t sure if Gabs and I would fit another show in, but I am so glad we chose to see the 2pm performance of ‘Stereophonic’ – the most Tony-nominated play in history. It’s about a band in the ‘70s on the brink of stardom, and how – over time – the group starts to break apart. The stage set is a recording studio and it is very well done. The performances were exceptional and the original songs were fabulous. It is scheduled to stay on Broadway until 5 Jan. 2025. If you are in town, you must go.
Monday morning came bright and early. A car to JFK airport and a bit of breakfast before boarding Cayman Airways’ direct flight to the island. Many of those who had attended the Lincoln Center event were on the plane, and it was lovely to swap stories about the concert.
Yes, New York certainly has a lot to offer, but in the end, there’s simply no place like home.
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