Make-up that is well applied and
catered to an individual’s skin type and skin tone can transform one’s look.
The difficulty is learning what
works on each person, as well as tips and tricks for application of make-up,
colours, make-up types, brands and the all-important decision: what look to go
with for different occasions.
The Observer on Sunday tried out
four looks with four lines of make-up: the Silver Rain Spa at the Ritz-Carlton’s
line of la prairie make-up to Niko mineral make-up sold at Eclipze Hair Design
and Day Spa, MAC’s new artistic collections and La Mer Spa at the Marriott
Grand Cayman’s new service: airbrushed make-up.
Each make-up artist created a
different look on our model, Karla, a look that embodied the make-up line while
complimenting her lifestyle, skin tone and individual features.
Decide on your favourite one and
read for application guidelines and product information.
Eclipze Hair Design and Day Spa
Make-up: Niko mineral make-up
Make-up artist Pearl began with a
pressed powder foundation base in ‘tropic’, along with a mix of concealer
(shades 2 and 3) under the eyes, to brighten Karla’s eyes and eradicate any
After applying a base, Pearl began
work on Karla’s eyes, using a highlighter (colour: Ms Universe) from her lid to
her browbone before layering colours Ms Manage (a deep red tone) and Ms Direct
(a gold tone) on her eyelids.
Ms Pronounce, a dark brown shadow,
was then applied along the lash line with an angled brush ideal for lining
Curling Karla’s eyelashes, Pearl
used a mascara to add emphasis to her lashes. As spa owner Darla Dilbert
explains, a day look “is all about making the eyes pop by emphasising lashes
and lining the eyes”.
A natural shade was applied to
Karla’s lips, as they were lined with the ‘by the way’ shade liner and the
‘shut up’ shade of gloss was applied to the lips, keeping the overall lip colour
Niko’s mineral-based make-up works
on all skin types, said Ms Dilbert.
“It’s especially good for problem
skin because it’s breathable,” she added. “They have a range that accommodates
all skin colours, from pressed powders to blotters.”
Although it is mineral, the make-up
is extremely durable, lasting all day without need for reapplication and its colours
are very vibrant, which is not always the case with mineral make-up.
An eco-friendly brand, Niko has
been Eclipze’s number one make-up brand for the past seven to eight years, and
Dilbert made the decision to begin selling the full line in the past year.
When choosing a day look, Dilbert
recommends choosing a lipstick that is not too bright and choosing more natural
colours. However, she said that women today do tend to be more playful with
their make-up, even in the daytime.
Karla felt it was a suitable
daytime look. “I would go to work in this make-up,” she said. “I wouldn’t have
chosen those colours on my own but I was really happy with them.”
Silver Rain Spa at the Ritz-Carlton, Grand Cayman
Make-up: la prairie
Danielle Ebanks, aesthetician at
the Silver Rain Spa, chose an elegant palette of silvers and blues to
compliment Karla’s dark brown eyes.
“Blue is opposite brown on the
colour wheel,” said Ms Ebanks, “so it brings out brown eyes nicely.”
Choosing to apply the foundation
last, in order to cover up any make-up that fell during application, Ms Ebanks
began by toning Karla’s face, removing any excess oil and make-up.
She then added a marine-derived
moisturiser that contained SPF20 to Karla’s skin to act as a base for the
make-up. Applying a base ensures the make-up lasts longer. On older clients, a
line filler may be used as well to help smooth out the skin and add a glow to
Applying an eye gel that included
caviar onto the eyelid and under the eye, Ms Ebanks explained that a gel “absorbs
faster into the skin, whereas creams can make shadows and eyeliners run.”
Ms Ebanks applied a concealer under
the eyes and on the eyelid. The concealer should always be a shade lighter than
the person’s skin tone and foundation, Ms Ebanks said, as it brightens the
“When applying eyeshadow, knock off
the excess shadow before applying and then pat on the shadow to make the colour
stronger,” Ms Ebanks advised as she applied a pearl eyeshadow to the lid.
Using more colours from the ‘Les
Cristals’ quad of eyeshadows, Ms Ebanks applied a silver shade on the outer
half of Karla’s eyelid.
“If you dampen the brush slightly
it makes the colour stronger,” Ms Ebanks advised.
Using an angled, liner brush, Ms
Ebanks then applied the silver shade onto the lower lash line. She then
switched to a dry brush to apply the darker blue shade to the lid and the lower
lash line, blending it with the silver to add dimension.
“Dry cotton buds are the best way
to lift colour off the skin,” said Ms Ebanks. “Brushes won’t lift colour away
so for cleaning up cotton buds are the best and most inexpensive option.”
Ms Ebanks used a liquid liner on
the upper lash line before filling in Karla’s eyebrows with a brown brow
pencil. She then curled Karla’s lashes and applied a curling mascara to assist
the lashes in holding their curl.
“Wiggle the mascara wand as you
apply the mascara,” Ms Ebanks said.
Because the eyes are so vibrant, Ms
Ebanks explained she would make Karla’s lips more natural. Applying an SPF15
lip treatment as a base, she lined the lips lightly and then applied a gloss in
the shade Nectar Glaze.
To finish, Ms Ebanks applied a
pressed powder and a touch of cream blush in a rosy shade, working the blush
into the skin with a sponge.
“It’s a really nice look for going
out at night, to an elegant dinner or gala,” said Karla. “I loved the
combination of silver and blue.”
MAC at the Estée Lauder store, Bayshore Mall
Make-up: MAC’s artist collections
MAC Manager Nicki Cockrill chose
MAC’s new art collections, created by an illustrator (Maira Kalman), painter
(Richard Phillips) and photographer (Marilyn Minter).
The illustrator’s collection
incorporates six eyeshadows and four eyeliners in vibrant colours, while the
painter’s line works with earthy shades such as greens and browns, and is the
most full collection, said Ms Cockrill, with lipsticks as well as eye make-up.
The photographer’s collection, which featured more glittery shades, has already
Ms Cockrill said she would apply
foundation last, so that no make-up would fall on it during the rest of the
application, but used a water-resistant base from the brand’s Paint Pot line in
the shade ‘bare study’. By applying this on the eyelids, it prevents creasing
and ensures the eye colour stays put for eight hours.
She then applied the eyeshadow
‘violet trance’ from the illustrator’s collection, building it up on the lid and
then blending the colour into the socket with the MAC Q17 blending brush, which
Ms Cockrill said can be used for blending both concealer and eyeshadow.
“Also put a little bit of shadow on
the lower lash line so it doesn’t look as though you just stopped the colour on
the eyelid,” she said.
Using an eyeliner from the brand’s
Technikohl line in a turquoise shade called ‘artistic licence’, also from the
illustrator’s collection, Ms Cockrill lined Karla’s lower lashes. “The Technikohl
liners are very water-resistant and have good staying power,” she said.
Using the water-resistant liquid
black (shade #266) liner from the brand’s ‘fluid line’ collection, Ms Cockrill
lined the top lashes. She then curled Karla’s lashes with MAC’s own eyelash
curler, which “has a round sponge in it so instead of making lashes go straight
up they really curl them.”
Then Ms Cockrill applied the Zoom
lash mascara, which is MAC’s number one selling mascara. “It has a thin wand
which gets right to the root of lashes and lifts them, volumising the
She used an eyebrow pencil in the
‘stud’ shade to add definition to Karla’s eyebrows, which helps to “frame the
face”. Using a clear brow set, she combed the eyebrows.
“This also helps take the edge off
the pencil,” Ms Cockrill explained.
Strobe liquid helped to lift the
face, moisturising and nourishing the skin. There’s a strobe cream that is more
suitable for dryer skin, as it is heavier.
Ms Cockrill applied Prep and Prime
to Karla’s T-zone area, as it holds foundation for eight hours and smoothes out
skin, hides pigmentation and open pores. Mineralised foundation with an SPF15
is then applied with a buffing brush, brush 188, as it buffs it into the skin,
making the foundation appear more natural on the skin.
“I loved the MAC look, it was nice
but not something I would think of wearing, because it is so funky. It would be
a great look for going out at night,” Karla said.
La Mer Spa at the Marriott Beach Resort
Jimmie DeLoach has more than 25
years of experience applying airbrushed make-up on people from Hollywood stars
like Sally Field to a cast of 90 dancers in a professional production of The Nutcracker,
which ran for 24 years. Now he is working at La Mer spa at the Marriott,
offering his services to the general public.
“Airbrushed make-up is what you
commonly see used in photo shoots or on film, as it creates a smooth clean
finish on the skin,” said Mr. DeLoach. “It’s so fast too, I can do 30 people’s
foundation in minutes.”
Airbrush make-up, Mr. DeLoach said,
is good for all skin types as it is non-oily. He uses the airbrush to apply foundation
and highlighter to contour cheekbones and features. He then applies lipstick,
eyeliner and mascara manually, along with eyeshadows for a more dramatic look.
“Airbrushed make-up is natural,
designed to give the skin a nice glow,” he said, choosing to apply foundation
and highlighter to Karla’s skin.
Afterwards, he applied eyeliner and
mascara to her eyes by hand. When applying Karla’s eyeliner, Mr. DeLoach asked
her to look up, and then waved his fingers in the air where she was looking. He
said that that is a trick he has learned over the years that prevents people
“It distracts the mind and focuses
the person’s gaze,” he explained.
Mr. DeLoach then used a gloss on Karla’s
lips. The overall effect was natural but the difference to her skin was notable.
“I barely noticed I had anything
on, and it was a natural look which I prefer,” said Karla. “I didn’t feel this
on my skin, it’s not heavy. It was also so fast!”