Forget the lights and decorations festooning the shelves of shops in mid-September, or the Hallmark channel’s schedule of snowy, sweet Christmas films in July; it is the smell of mulled wine permeating through a house that really rings in the festive season.
The mixture of citrus, cloves and cinnamon is unmistakable, and you don’t have to be Martha Stewart to produce delicious batches of the stuff. But where did mulled wine come from, and how did it begin?
Of course, as usual, there are varying stories. If you guessed that the Romans and Greeks come into it somewhere, you’d be right, although in which precise century is somewhat up for debate. There are those who say that mulled wine originated with the Romans in the 2nd century. They would heat the liquid to warm themselves in the cold winter (or, drink enough that they didn’t care about freezing). It was called Conditum Paradoxum, and honey, pepper, laurel, saffron and dates were part of the mix.
Others swear that it was the Greeks who began the tradition, using leftover wine from harvest, mixed with spices, so that little went to waste. Supposedly they called their concoction ‘hippocras’, named after Hippocrates, although what came first – the wine or the name – is open for discussion.
Regardless of the above, everyone agrees on the fact that it became a very popular drink in the Middle Ages. If the Monty Python films are anything to go by, it seems the people from that time could use all the cheer they could get. The addition of spices to what was probably sub-par wine back then made the elixir all the more drinkable, particularly as the water was more likely to kill you anyway.
The word ‘mull’, meaning ‘to heat, sweeten and flavour with spices’ showed up in the early 17th century, according to Merriam-Webster, and a book titled ‘The Good Housewife’s Jewel’ written by Thomas Dawson (a man, typical) in 1596, lists the recipe for ‘hypocrace’. Much like today, the recipes differ from tome to tome, but the main goal remains the same – a warmed alcoholic beverage that features a mix of spices.
Another running theme that has not changed over the years, is that you don’t need to use expensive wine. Do not be dunking a bottle of Chateau Lafite 1787 into your Le Creuset saucepan, followed by a splashing of orange slices. (Although, we highly recommend getting an empty bottle of a pricey vintage, filling it with $13 wine, then making a big show as you pour it into a pan in front of your open-mouthed, weeping sommelier friends.)
It may not snow in the Caribbean, but you can either crank the air-conditioning down or wait for the Christmas breeze to come-a-calling, then mull some wine and let that amazing aroma fill the house. Turn your TV dial to the Yule Log station, sit back, and allow the merry to wash over you.
Mulled Wine Recipe
Ingredients
- 1 bottle of dry red wine (750ml)
- ¼ cup of brandy or orange liqueur (optional)
- 1 orange, sliced into rounds
- 8 whole cloves
- 2 cinnamon sticks
- 2 star anise
- 2-4 tablespoons sugar, honey or maple syrup
Method
- Combine ingredients. Add wine, brandy, orange slices, cloves, cinnamon, star anise, and 2 tablespoons sweetener to a large saucepan. Stir briefly to combine.
- Simmer. Cook the mulled wine on medium-high heat until it just barely reaches a simmer. (Avoid letting it bubble — you don’t want to boil off the alcohol.) Reduce heat to low, cover, and let the wine simmer for at least 15 minutes or up to 3 hours.
- Strain. Using a fine mesh strainer, remove and discard the orange slices, cloves, cinnamon sticks, and star anise. Give the mulled wine a taste and stir in extra sweetener if needed.
- Serve. Serve warm in heatproof mugs (VERY important – we did glass tankards one year and it ended in tears), topped with your favourite garnishes.
- Gloat. Let the accolades pour in and swear it’s your secret family recipe.
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