When eating out, rather than at home, guests usually expect to be greeted by a restaurant host, guided to their seats, and handed a menu by a server.
After being given some time to peruse the options they choose their dishes – maybe a cocktail or some wine – and the evening progresses from there. Now, a new restaurant on the Cayman map – Mario’s, in The Grove – is shaking things up a bit. It completely embraces the omakase concept, where all food decisions are left up to the chef and the menu changes daily. It is a set price of $90 plus gratuities for five courses (with an additional amuse-bouche at the start and sweet surprise at the end of the meal), and accompanying beverages can be a la carte, or there is an excellent wine pairing option for $90.
Something new
Mario (no last name, just like Cher), of Tasting Room fame, has taken a bit of a chance with this idea. How will people feel about sitting back and letting the experience wash over them, rather than being involved in the selection of what they eat? By all accounts thus far, it seems that not only are they allowing it – they are embracing it. Six weeks open, and the place is thriving. And although the chef sets the menu, preferences, allergies and other dietary restrictions are taken into account when the reservation is made.
“Vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free… we can accommodate a range of requests,” said Alison Bieber, head chef at Mario’s, who added that so long as they are given the information in advance, creating dishes to suit specific tastes is something at what the restaurant excels.
Down the rabbit hole
On the night that my dining companion Lynne and I went to give Mario’s a try, it took us a moment to find the front door in The Grove. No signage, nothing obvious to indicate that this was our destination. That’s one of the deliberate decisions Mario has made to turn an evening out into an adventure. It’s not to a ridiculous level; you don’t need a password and there isn’t a big wooden wall with a small window so a staff member (a la Billy Crystal in ‘The Princess Bride’) can size you up before allowing you passage. It’s just part of the understated charm. Actually, before you even enter the premises you’ll encounter what I call the aperitif patio, where those with dinner reservations can relax before a meal with a palate-opening tipple. Covered in vines, and supporting plant boxes overflowing with home-grown herbs, this is a lovely space reminiscent of European terraces.
The indoor dining area has been thoughtfully laid out, allowing for a maximum of 50 guests, with long lounge seating, intimate booths and comfortable armchairs positioned under soft lighting. This, coupled with an impressive wine cellar and luxurious bar, makes for decadent and relaxing surroundings.
Nothing about dining at Mario’s is rushed. No one is hovering so they can turn your table for the next set of reservations. Mario has very definite ideas of what he wants this restaurant to be, and considering his years of experience in the industry, if anyone knows what works, it’s him.
That evening, we supped upon tuna tataki crostini with cucumber pearls; coconut ceviche with jalapeño, sweet potato and green plantain chips; wahoo tartare with sesame dressing, fresh avocado and tomato; mushroom raviolo with a divine beurre blanc; ginger-infused duck breast and local bok choy; a salted dark chocolate brownie with a rum granita and hints of chili; and, finally, bite-sized petit four perched delicately on spoons.
Throughout the meal, maître d’ Marco Cimini plied us with one excellent selection of wine after the next to pair with the courses. I would highly recommend the wine pairing when you go. Our server, Gustavo Varela, did an excellent job of describing each dish, particularly when you imagine that each day the menu gets reset, and it’s all-change once again.
Final thoughts
I really didn’t know how I would feel about letting the chef ‘drive’, particularly being the Type A personality I am, but I came out of the experience loving every minute of it. I’ll be the first to admit that I tend to lean towards the same items on a menu, no matter where I dine. I don’t think I realised how safe I was playing it all the time. So, being taken out of my comfort zone was exactly what I needed. I don’t mean we were being fed scorpion or tree snake – but I ate dishes I might have overlooked, had they not been brought to me that night.
It reminded me of when I went shoe-shopping in a US mall about 10 years ago, and I gravitated towards my usual black, heeled boots and slip-on sneakers. Without being asked, the salesman also brought out these Kate Spade bright pink kitten heels, with a jewelled bow on the front. I laughed when I saw them. “Those are not me AT ALL,” I told him.
“Just try them anyway,” he said. “I think they’ll work on you.”
I still wear them to this day.
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