It is a skill, a talent and a gift to create food of top quality.
We don’t always realise it, but the amount of hard work, high attention to detail and science to put together a stunning plate of food is extraordinary.
Blue by Eric Ripert at the Ritz-Carlton, Grand Cayman is a prime example, and with their Uncovered series they invite people into the kitchen itself where the chefs demonstrate the techniques that go into their – let’s say it – art.
So it proves when Weekender visits the kitchen of Luis Lujan, chef de cuisine. This talented chap proceeds to talk us through a quite sublime pounded yellow fin tuna dish. Weekender follows each step, but could we really do this at home? Well, we can try at least. Each course is paired with a great wine selected by sommelier Kristian Netis. The main is a Baked Snapper Sancocho, which pulls together various techniques and flavours from Latin America and the Caribbean, paired with a mighty Malbec from Argentina. So far, so fantastico.
Cocoa magic
There is a special reason Weekender’s at Uncovered and that is for the appearance of Michael Laiskonis, the executive pastry chef Le Bernardin in New York. Having experienced some of his magic at the Cayman Cookout, we’re delighted to have this opportunity to be walked through his innovative Cocoa Paris-Brest.
The chef explains that the pastry dish was originally conceived in the late 19th century to commemorate the Paris-Brest bicycle race. Indeed, it even looks like a wheel in its traditional form. Laiskonis’ cocoa version takes the familiar praline filling to higher levels. It’s intricate, delicate and delicious, with the ice cream accompaniment and punchy dark ale from Quebec called Trois Pistoles,
There are also surprises, notably a non-menu amuse bouche served in a washed-out eggshell and called, simply, The Egg. It includes chocolate custard, caramel foam and, magnificently, a palate-opening explosion courtesy of our very own Cayman Sea Salt.
C
hocolate Blue
Besides making his guest appearance in Uncovered,
Laiskonis was in Cayman to present Chocolate Blue, a special five-night tasting of three desserts in Blue by Eric Ripert.
Chocolate Blue was available with or without wine pairing, and with or without an accompanying four-course dinner. The dessert-only option gave Laiskonis the rare opportunity to create the main courses of a chocolate-lovers dream meal.
Restaurant manager Martin Hoetzl says most tourists who chose to try the Chocolate Blue tasting did it with dinner, but a number of people came in only for the dessert tasting.
Sommelier Netis, who worked on the pairings with Le Bernardin sommelier Aldo Sohm, poured Vietti Muscato d’Asti with the first offering featuring white chocolate and pistachio terrine. The Egg featured during Uncovered was served next, with the Trois Pistoles ale.
Netis advised patrons not to be too quick in drinking the ale after eating from The Egg.
“Wait until the last bit of saltiness leaves the palate and then take a drink,” he said.
A dark chocolate parfait with coconut sorbet came next, paired with a sweet Sauternes to balance the bitterness of the chocolate.
Four small rich chocolate confections finished off Chocolate Blue, leaving even those who chose the dessert-only tasting well satisfied.
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