This season you will have your pick of various strong trends and can have fun matching them to your own personal style.
Choose from Bohemian or luxe-hippie; denim in all shades and shapes; romantic, pretty pieces in white lace; shades of ballerina pink or the other must-have shade of the season – dramatic lipstick red.
Other trends are graphic black-and-white design; black textures including feathers; chiffon organza and beading; feminine gingham in ‘50s and ‘60s starlet-style; creative painterly florals, or military-inspired silhouettes.
Here is a guide to what was seen on eclectic catwalks of Spring/Summer 2015 in New York, London, Milan and Paris.
Dries van Noten encapsulated what was perhaps the most important trend of the season, reminiscent of Haight-Ashbury (late 1960s) or Studio 54 (late 1970s) days. He expertly mixed psychedelic, paisley, stripes and checks in an eclectic dusky palette on layered pieces. The trend wove itself throughout the fashion capitals on a marbled, long pleated dress at Roberto Cavalli and crocheted tassled tunics at Alberta Ferretti. Emilio Pucci also showed many Ibiza-style variations on this theme. Georgia May Jagger channeled her father Mick’s heyday in a tiered white diaphanous chiffon dress at Marchesa.
Yves Saint Laurent was the embodiment of all things Bowie, Bolan and ‘70s style, and Hedi Slimane treated us to a purple and silver star-print mini dress with snake print crop jacket, and a patchwork pattern beaded mini dress. This bohemian spirit also shone at Frida Giannini’s last collection at Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Prada, Miu Miu, Giamba and Valentino.
Spring/Summer 2015 saw a wide variation of styling in black through indigo, to palest blue. Fitted corset-shaped jackets, a coat with electric blue patent and suede pockets at Burberry Prorsum, and a two-tone black raw-edged denim dress with black sequins at Bottega Veneta highlighted the creativity of use of this staple fabric.
Chloé showed a deep indigo jumpsuit with cargo pants, and at Alberta Ferretti, powder blue wide-leg jeans and a long V-neck dress had cut-out flowers and pale pink chiffon hems. At Prada, ‘70s shapes appeared in deep indigo with contrasting orange stitching. Diane von Furstenberg, Roberto Cavalli, Louis Vuitton, Dolce & Gabbana and Stella McCartney also had their own personal take on denim this season.
Visualize if you will Grace Coddington’s “Light Brigade” story in US Vogue last month. Inspired by the film “Picnic at Hanging Rock” and photographed by Peter Lindbergh, models wear the most beautiful Edwardian-style white lace dresses of the season from Giamba, Alberta Ferretti, Valentino, Chanel, Roberto Cavalli, Louis Vuitton, Chloé, Erdem, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta and Givenchy, accessorized with black tights, black lace-up shoes or boots and straw boaters. Blumarine, Diane von Furstenberg, and Marchesa also included Chantilly, guipere and filigree lace in their Spring Summer 2015 Collections.
At Oscar de la Renta, a lace tea dress and strapless long organza gown were in this delicate shade, and Alberta Ferretti created chiffon lace-edged long dresses and pants worn with chiffon blouses. This divine tone continued in a fishnet dress and coat at Balenciaga, satin ruffled strapless silk crepe dress at Blumarine, silk trouser suit at Bottega Veneta, and a simply gorgeous ruched chiffon slip dress at Burberry Prorsum. Givenchy presented a ballerina pink ruffle skirt with fitted bodice; Rochas featured a shirt and long ruffled lace skirt; and Stella McCartney chose the shade in softest silk satin. The hue was also seen at Alexander McQueen, Chanel, Valentino, Versace and Chloé.
In contrast to the romantic femininity of ballerina pink, the other most prevalent shade at Spring/Summer 2015 was a bold, sexy bright red. This dramatic color stunned at Calvin Klein Collection in a glossy leather A-line dress, and at Balmain in a chiffon spaghetti-strap double-layered gown on Joan Smalls. There was a ‘20s style deep-red chiffon pleated dress at Burberry Prorsum, a deep-red satin dress with bugle beads at Carolina Herrera, and a scarlet ruffle mini dress on Edie Campbell at Isabel Marant. Christopher Kane showed a red satin organza and sunray appliqué dress, and there was a tassled lace dress at Dolce & Gabbana. Other examples were at Louis Vuitton and Valentino.
Black and white
This bold and graphic trend appeared in New York abstractly at DKNY, on lace and satin at Oscar de la Renta, in stripes at Victoria Beckham, and in modern florals at Carolina Herrera. Boss showed pieces in geometric print organza, Diane von Furstenberg presented many graphic pieces, and Dolce & Gabbana showed off a polka-dot ruched tea dress. Marni, Versace, Roberto Cavalli, Blumarine and Giamba all showed monochrome designs.
In Paris, Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy designed a predominantly black and white collection, and this trend was strong at Chanel, Balmain, Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen and Isabel Marant.
Spring/Summer 2015 is set to see sexy evening wear in a myriad of black textures. The best examples were seen at Roberto Cavalli with a pleated tassled chiffon and lace dress, stunning embroidered and feather-edged halter gown at Prabal Gurung, a sequined chiffon dress at Tom Ford, and tooled leather slip dress at Versace. Black devorée and bugle-beaded chiffon showed at Dries Van Noten, black chiffon, satin and net at Alexander Wang, beaded fishnet at Balenciaga, and at Blumarine a mixture of black chiffon, floral lace and plissé continued the trend. At Alexander McQueen, chiffon was teamed with leather, black bugle-beaded net and ribbon. Other textured blacks were seen at Louis Vuitton, Erdem, Balmain, Emilio Pucci, Marchesa, Givenchy, Chloé, Valentino, Rochas, Roksanda and Stella McCartney.
This pretty trend was styled in a fresh feminine way, reminiscent of Brigitte Bardot. At Bottega Veneta, there were several examples, including a black/white ruffled dress on Edie Campbell, and pale yellow/white shirt dress with matching cardigan. At Diane von Furstenberg looks included a black-and-white gingham V-neck wrap dress with three-quarter sleeves and chiffon drop waist skirt, a scoop neck, gathered bodice, empire line dress, and long dress with larger gingham on thigh-high split skirt.
Bright bold florals carried on the intensely feminine feel this season with particularly pretty examples at Oscar de la Renta. At Alberta Ferretti, there were dresses in chocolate and lilac floral silk; brightly colored appliqué at Blumarine; and abstract painted Burberry Prorsum. Carolina Herrera’s modern garden collection saw a magnolia-floral satin long dress, and Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel created artisanal painted floral fabrics in various rainbow bright colors for skirts, dresses, boots and a caped coat. Flowers were splashed on dresses at Erdem and at Emilio Pucci. The floral trend was also shown at Celine, Diane von Furstenberg, Gucci, Saint Laurent, Valentino, Marni, Dolce & Gabbana and Bottega Veneta.
Often a favorite with designers, military was a definite trend again for this season. The variety included a glammed-up cropped jacket in a deep olive suede at Tom Ford, a pale beige military shirt dress at Victoria Beckham, and various shades of khaki suede at Chanel. Marc Jacobs showed a collection at the Drill Hall in Park Avenue Armory, completely inspired by military shapes in different shades of camouflage green, khaki and brown. He reworked the military silhouette using satin and plastic cabouchon studs on epaulettes and masquerading as medals. Mary Katrantzou and Saint Laurent also showed
a camouflage jackets.