Caymanian London-based fashion designer Jawara Alleyne delivered his first live stand-alone ‘SS24 Beach Business’ runway show during London Fashion Week 2023 at a decommissioned chapel in East London last week.
Alleyne said ‘SS24 Beach Business’ is a marker of what he sees as his presentation of Caribbean fashion and a story about Caribbean identity.
“A lot of times what you see is the way the Caribbean is spoken about from the lens of a visitor, not from the lens of someone who is actually from the islands,” he said.
The 32-year-old explained having the first stand-alone show, held on 19 Sept., sets a precedent.
“To present your very own [stand-alone] show is sort of a marker of where you see your business going. It’s really a business and marketing presentation of what the industry can expect from you,” he said.
The inspiration for ‘SS24 Beach Business’
Upon his return to Cayman this summer, Alleyne explained he started to look at what really inspired him and at identity through fashion.
“I remember, working in corporate, I’d always get in trouble for the stuff I used to wear as things were appropriate for the weather, but not for the corporate environment,” he said. “I always found the tension between the heavy corporate space of Cayman and what we have to wear. It started from there… thinking a lot about the relationship with clothes we have and wear in the islands and look at stories that are not commonly explored within the space of Caribbean fashion/identity.”
Alleyne said practicality, in the form of casual T-shirts, loose button-downs, polos and baggy jeans, was the basis of the collection.
The Caymanian touch
SS24 Beach Business runway show, which featured a 50-piece collection, was set beneath “a giant installation piece fashioned as a ship’s mast and sail,” referencing an abstract of Alleyne’s signature, hand-painted by Caymanian artist Stefan Langlois.
The show kicked off with a dub poetry performance of ‘Shipwreck Interlude’, written and performed by Alleyne’s brother, Tafari Alleyne. A Cayman Islands streetwear brand, Mutiny, was a part of the SS24 collection. Two Caymanian models – Cassianne Lawrence and Alyssa Gilbert – were also a part of the runway show.
Alleyne told the Cayman Compass it was important the show included as many Caymanians as possible.
“From the model cast to production and management teams, we wanted to expose as many local young creatives to the industry, to give them training and real-world experiences,” he said. “As much as the journey has been mine, I’m always very cognizant of making sure that whatever opportunities I have, I include people that can learn from those opportunities as well. That’s something you don’t necessarily see on the runway.”
Alleyne said once the sounds of dancehall/punk-rock music started playing and the key looks hit the runway, the tension was high.
“It was a marker of the energy and clarity of the energy I wanted to present,” he said. “Having the disconnection between the pace and energy of the music and the elegance of the models down the catwalk, made the whole experience even more impactful. Once the production starts, anything can go array.
“There’s a lot of tension throughout, until the show is ended, you’re still trying to remain in that space of making sure everything is done right.”
The business side of things
Alleyne said the biggest challenge was the ‘business’ side of things.
“There’s a lot of decisions that need to be made behind the scenes to ensure that things can run seamlessly and that you’re spending the best way,” he said. “Keeping whole and true to the purpose and intent of the show, especially being the first show that I’m doing on my own, as a stand-alone designer… making sure everything was managed right, was the biggest challenge.”
‘The support means the world’
The live show was featured on Alleyne’s Instagram page, with Caymanians who were watching showing their support with Cayman Islands flag emojis. A small Cayman Islands government contingent was among the crowd, including Heritage and Culture Minister Bernie Bush, and the Cayman Islands government representative in the UK Tasha Ebanks-Garcia.
“An investment in locally nurtured talent is an investment in the future well-being of Cayman and highlights the growing local art scene internationally,” Bush said in a press release. “Jawara’s dedication to his discipline has demonstrated a commitment to exemplify artistic excellence and academic achievement. We are proud and support what he has accomplished and excited to see what else he has in store for the future. It is truly inspirational.”
Tourism Minister Kenneth Bryan said in a statement, “I am thrilled to support Jawara Alleyne, as he showcases to the world, the amazing talent that resides in the Cayman Islands. His unique vision embodies the vibrant spirit of our beautiful islands, and I encourage all Caymanians to be inspired by his success. Jawara’s passion, creativity, and dedication to his craft is a shining example of what can be achieved when we dare to dream and pursue our passions with unwavering determination.”
Alleyne said, when he left the islands, he didn’t feel his worth and value as a designer was noted.
“Though there were a lot of people within the community that supported me, there was also equally a lot of people within the community that didn’t support me. To come full circle in this moment, in my creative journey, is worthwhile and makes sense,” he said.
Alleyne added this is not specific to Cayman.
“Even in London,” he said, “there’s a lot of misconceptions around the creative industries and the value you can derive out of studying and choosing to go down a path that is a creative one. The worth and value of taking up a career like this and getting the support from government and from all the Caymanians that are in support, means the world.”
The real work begins
Alleyne shared there is a big misconception of Fashion Week, that the work ends there.
“I’m already on to the next one. You show your collections, you need to show your sales, press happens, you need to manage your collection, and then there’s the turnaround for the next collection [which] is so tight. It’s a circle that keeps moving. You don’t have a chance to sit and reflect on it, you have to move on. You use that buzz to carry you through,” he said.
Designing since he was 16, Alleyne said passion and diligence keep him going.
“You have to keep your head down and really focus on the thing you are passionate about. I’m passionate about fashion and it’s connected to a lot of other industries,” he said.
Alleyne explained he will continue to build his brand. “This is the start of the brand, there’s so much that needs to be done. On to more, bigger and better things,” he said.
For more information, visit www.jawaraalleyne.com and follow @jawaraalleyne on Instagram and Facebook.
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