It’s hard to believe it’s been 20 years since Hurricane Ivan. It was a truly catastrophic event for the island, but I also remember the amazing sense of community spirit in the aftermath … and the day Burger King reopened.
I was less than a week back from a big vacation, and my birthday was fast approaching. As we watched the track of the mammoth storm, it didn’t look like we were going to be hard hit. In fact, on Friday, 10 Sept. a group of us went out to dinner at La Bodega restaurant, situated in West Shore Centre. Some businesses had closed early, and there was the usual rush at the supermarkets, but there was no sense of serious worry. A number of bars and restaurants were still operating.
All of that changed in the early hours of the morning. The storm skipped to the left, the wind speeds increased, and suddenly we were right in its path.
We all know what followed – a weather event that forever changed Cayman’s landscape, embedded in the memories of all who were here to witness Nature’s fury.
Emerging from our shelters like cavemen after the all-clear was given, and somehow making our way to our homes, was a surreal experience. Landmark buildings and trees were warped, damaged or completely gone, making it difficult to get our bearings in some areas. I remember driving a mile or so before recognising Lime Tree Bay – there were boats up on the land, large swathes of foliage missing, and street signs were nowhere to be seen. The devastation was overwhelming. We wondered how we would pick up the pieces of our own property and how the island as a whole could even begin to recover from this.
The aftermath was tough – no doubt about it – but for those of us who stayed here in the months that followed, every day brought fresh tales of charity, generosity, kindness, and even humour.
As many people know, hundreds of vehicles were destroyed. Who knew that sea water and car engines just didn’t mix? My best friend and I both ended up with the largest paperweights in the world. Before they got towed, I figured I’d at least siphon out the petrol from the full tanks so we could gift it to someone else. It didn’t occur to me that the fuel might be tainted, but it was all a moot point as both our cars had anti-siphon valves so I ended up with nothing better than a mouthful of fumes and a headache.
Those who were lucky enough to have access to operational transport picked up hitchhikers without question. We had a work panel van loaner with only a driver and passenger seat up front – the back was empty for hauling boxes and whatnot. We stopped for people from one end of the island to the other, to the point where they were huddled together in the windowless cocoon like a scene from an investigative report. The wheels were glorified doughnuts, so not the most comfortable ride, but we were all grateful for the air-conditioning and the means of getting around relatively quickly.
There was no electricity or running water. It was a world of generators, bottles, buckets and rain showers, which were a double-edged sword. Nice to have an impromptu freshwater rinse, but then you got sweaty again trying to replace bins under the roof leaks. Maybe it was just me (I sincerely hope not), but no matter how many times I washed with a bucket of water, it was almost impossible to keep the dreaded BO (body odour) at bay. If I could bottle that delightful scent and call it ‘Ivan: Eau de Parfum’, I’m sure more than one person would instantly recognise it.
We’ve always taken restaurants for granted – heck, even a working stove. I tell you, when it’s been months of cooking basic dishes on a portable heating element, a Burger King meal can have you ready to wave down a Michelin Guide inspector.
“ … elevates the noble frosty milkshake to a higher plane, as it is presented in an attractive receptacle, complete with straw for easy consumption. The soft buns yield to the slightest jaw pressure, revealing a sumptuous … ”
When Bacchus in town opened with a significantly pared-down menu (but it was a MENU – brought tears) it was like an Irish pub on St. Patrick’s Day in there; an off-the-scale COVID super-spreader; a Taylor Swift meet-and-greet. Wall-to-wall punters indulged in cold beverages, piping-hot pasta, and hours of hearty catch-up conversation.
That was the main thing – the chatting; connecting with others. Whether we were standing in line, waiting to be let into the supermarket, or by the Flowers Water truck with our arms full of receptacles, we would talk with those around us, swapping stories. We were all in this together.
It’s incredible when we see how far the island has come since then. It took time, but we recovered. Let’s pray we never have to go through such an event again, but let’s also not forget the neighbourliness that followed.
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