Former resident says now is the best time to visit
A former resident of Grand Cayman who visited six months after Hurricane Ivan gave his impressions of the rebuilding effort and his diving experience in Caribbean Travel & Life Magazine.
The article, which is now posted on MSNBC.com, dated August 31, 2005 and called ‘All’s Clear Grand Cayman’ paints a picture of a resilient island, with even more resilient people, and a place blessed with wonderful and largely untouched natural resources, such glorious beaches and dive sites.
In the beginning of the article the author, Bob Friel, suggests that now may be the best time in about 20 years to visit the island. He elaborates on this point some more toward the end of the article.
‘The beach is still as stunning as ever, maybe even more so – or maybe I finally had the luxury of walking its golden sands without carrying scuba tanks. Resorts like the Westin have been almost fully booked since they reopened, and many of the guests are repeaters who have been coming for years and are thrilled to visit now when there’s only a fraction of the usual number of people on the island.
‘The miles of beach not on the cruise-shipper’s hit list are empty, and boats have their pick of the best dive sites. The Stingrays are still in the City, the farm is still full of turtles, Hell is still welcoming all comers, and there are more restaurants and bars open than anyone could sample in a two-month stay.’
Memorable moments
The former resident recounts how he lived in West Bay 20 years ago and worked as a dive instructor and describes one night he sat up in a gazebo at Dolphin Point waiting for a storm, hoping it would cause him to have no work the next day.
‘Standing today at the exact same spot where, 20 years ago, I waited for wind to blow and waves to grow angry, I realise how foolish I was,’ he said.
He describes the devastation that was caused at Dolphin Point and then journeys to Cobalt Coast Resort to find it in perfect shape.
He makes a trip to Champion House II to meet old friends and his table is filled with conch, lobster, turtle and snapper. Meanwhile, Collin and Olive Pearson recount their hurricane story, of how a school of minnows was swimming around their sunken living room, part of their roof ripped off and their back door blew open.
The article goes on to recount the author’s dive the next morning. Mr. Friel notices a huge change in the shoreline of West Bay Road, from the sea.
‘Not only are most of the trees and poles gone due to Ivan, but it’s obvious that another kind of storm has swept over the island during the last 20 years. Where there had been a few condos and a couple of hotels on Seven Mile Beach, now there is a nearly solid line of buildings, including the new Four Seasons (Ritz Carlton Grand Cayman) – still under construction but already showing off its tradition-breaking variance that allows it to rise above the palm trees.’
The article goes on to describe a dive at Big Tunnels in the West Bay area. ‘I’m euphoric, and it’s only partially due to the nitrogen narcosis. The dive is the same wonderful game of zero gravity follow the leader in and out, up and down the tunnels that ant farm through the massive pinnacles. More importantly, though, the corals, which on the most pristine of reefs form just a thin patina of vibrant life atop the remains of their ancestors, look healthy and undamaged.’
Road to recovery
The author mentions the huge underwater and beach clean-ups that took place following Hurricane Ivan.
He refers to visits to Hemmingway’s Restaurant and the Cracked Conch while soaking up information about hurricane and post-hurricane life.
Yet despite the damage he views, he sees so much hope. ‘But everywhere I go I also see rebirth, and everyone who tells me a story of watching their roof blow away follows it with their plans for the future, of new tourism businesses, of the chance this has given them to redesign and remodel, and how the storm brought an island populated by a mishmash of ex-pats, permit workers and locals together as a community.’
After a trip to The Reef Resort in East End he finds what he calls a ‘perfect example of the Caymanians’ positive attitude’, as this resort was rebuilt and repaired straight away without waiting for the insurance adjuster.
He also comments that as far as everyone on Grand Cayman is concerned, there is little chance of another storm like Ivan happening again.
‘The storm of the century has come and gone. And it’s only 2005: They have a calm, clear 95 years to look forward to before they’ll have to worry about what’s lurking in the southern skies.’
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